BYOB Buzz: Sanook

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Their eats: When we go looking for fun, urban strip malls aren’t usually tops on our list. The mall on Irving Park Road that houses Sanook—which literally means "fun" in Thai—might be an exception.

Sanook isn’t your typical strip mall Thai joint. The serene, blue-hued space is a soothing departure from the brightly lit parking lot, and though the dining room is spacious, partitions topped with tea lights help create a comfortable vibe. To up the fun factor, movies often are projected on one wall and funky beats play on the sound system.

The Japanese-Thai menu mixes sushi and Thai dishes, with both getting roughly equal play. If you’re here for the sushi, general manager Tobie Traisub, son of owner Vorachai Traisub, recommends the signature Big Ben maki ($15), a huge roll (softshell crab, tempura shrimp, unagi and more) named after Tobie’s brother Benjamin, the sushi chef.

The current sushi menu includes a range of maki and nigiri, but it’s not yet complete—Sanook just opened in November. Three to five new specialty rolls will join the lineup monthly for each of the next six months; the most popular will remain. There’s also an $18 all-you-can-eat sushi buffet 4-9 p.m. Sunday-Tuesday. If you’re leaning Thai, ask about the new seven-course tasting menu, a sampling of Thai favorites for $18 per person.

Your drinks: Tobie Traisub learned a lot about pairing wine and Thai food during a previous gig as a server at Arun’s (4156 N. Kedzie Ave.), so he happily dispenses BYOB suggestions. Of course, a sweet riesling or full-bodied chardonnay are always good choices for spicy Thai seafood or chicken dishes. For the latter, pop in at Quick Shop (2901 W. Irving Park 773-267-7169) and pick up a bottle of organic Sterling Vineyards chardonnay ($13.99).

Quick Shop also sells Rosenblum Cellars Chateau La Paws Cote du Bone Roan ($12.99), a red blend with notes of cherries, spice and smoke that’s a versatile pick if you’re thinking about going with one of Sanook’s beef dishes.

Sanook charges a $5 corkage fee; it’s waived for first-time customers.

Emily Hiser Lobdell is a Metromix special contributor. metromix@tribune.com