BYOB Buzz: La Fonda del Gusto

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Their eats: Some sequels bomb. (“Weekend at Bernie’s II,” anyone?) But a good sequel can outshine the original. (Ahem, “The Bourne Supremacy.”) So which category does Wicker Park’s La Fonda del Gusto fall into? Though it’s been open little more than a week, this sequel to Taqueria y Restaurant el Gusto, which occupied the same space for more than a decade before closing in 2004, is already looking bigger, fancier and (dare we say?) better than its predecessor. Co-owners Lisa Lee (whose aunt owned Taqueria y Restaurant el Gusto) and her husband, Jose Palomino, have completely renovated and expanded the space.

La Fonda del Gusto, which roughly translates to “a small place where you can eat with enthusiasm,” serves traditional staples such as tacos ($2 each), tostadas ($2.75) tortas ($4.75) and huaraches ($5.99), which are already a crowd pleaser. The menu will evolve over the next month or so, with traditional, rustic recipes that have been served up in small towns for the last two centuries joining the current lineup of more familiar Mexican favorites. For now, don’t miss the champurrado ice cream sandwich ($5.99). The warm, cinnamon-infused fudge cookie sandwich filled with sweet corn ice cream and served atop lime creme anglaise is a little piece of heaven.

Your drinks: La Fonda del Gusto is ready for the BYOB crowd, selling pina colada and margarita mixers by the glass ($2.99 each). Mojito mix and fresh mint leaves are available too, so you may want to snag an on-sale bottle of Leblon Brazilian rum ($25.99 through June 1; regularly $27.99) from the nearby Jewel/Osco (1341 N. Paulina St. 773-342-3410). If you’re sticking with margaritas, Hornitos Plata tequila is also on sale for $21.99 a bottle (regularly $24.99). Or get a bottle of each, call ahead to reserve La Fonda’s 36-seat private back room overlooking the well-manicured back lawn, and make it a party. There is no corkage fee.

Emily Hiser Lobdell is a Metromix special contributor. metromix@tribune.com