BYOB Buzz: Hot Woks Cool Sushi

Their eats: Four-month-old pan-Asian noodle, rice and sushi restaurant Hot Woks Cool Sushi might just help put the Old Irving neighborhood on the city’s dining map. Neighborhood folks already have discovered this newcomer, located right off the Pulaski/Irving Park Road exit on the Kennedy Expressway, and word is clearly getting out—the dining room fills quickly, especially on weekends.

Co-owner Lois Lee (her co-partner and chef is Woranat "Noom" Wathakeyanon, who used to work at Sushi Wabi and Lincoln Square’s Tank) says the restaurant’s logo, a yin and yang symbol "twisted and put in a box," exemplifies the traditional yet slightly unconventional feel they aim to create. The restaurant, housed in a remodeled, two-story single-family home, boasts modern Asian decor and clean lines. "We’re like Pottery Barn gone Asian," Lee says.

On the menu, you’ll find typical Thai, Chinese and Japanese noodle and rice dishes, as well as customary maki and nigiri. There also are a few surprises, including "untraditional egg rolls" stuffed with sausage ($3.95), and Fukudome maki, a jumbo roll filled with shrimp tempura, mayo, masago, avocado, chili sauce, cream cheese and scallions with tempura crumbs on the outside and wasabi mayo and sweet soy on top ($13.95).

Your drinks: There aren’t many options within walking distance of the restaurant, so plan ahead and pick up a bottle at Wine Discount Center before you go.

Lee says she likes to pair a crisp Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc with the wok dishes, and the Wine Discount Center sells the 2008 vintage for a bargain $12.99.

Wine Discount manager Mike Baker suggests sparkling wine with sushi, especially if you like a lot of hot wasabi. He sells a bottle of Mumm Carte Classique Champagne non-vintage brut at what he claims is the lowest price in the country: $19.99.

Emily Hiser Lobdell is a Metromix special contributor. metromix@tribune.com