BYOB Buzz: Antica Pizzeria

Their eats: Finding Andersonville’s Antica Pizzeria can be a bit confusing. The 6-month-old pizzeria shares a striped awning with neighbor Real Azteca, and it’s easy enough to wander into the Mexican spot if you’re not paying close attention. But once you step inside Antica, there’s no mistaking you’re in the right place for Neopolitan-style pizzas: A wood-burning pizza oven is fully exposed in the open kitchen.

The rest of the space is homey, with cheery yellow walls and tea lights scattered about on wooden tables. The food has a comfortable, simple feel too. You’ll find straightforward pastas, salads and antipasti on the menu, but the real stars here are the thin-crust pizzas. We like the Parma, a fresh presentation of mozzarella, Parmigiano, cherry tomatoes, arugula and prosciutto ($14.95). The Fattoressa, a combo of Italian cooked ham, hard-boiled eggs, green peas, mushrooms and fresh mozzarella ($14.50), comes directly from co-owner Mario Rapisarda’s Sicilian mother.

Your drinks: There’s a liquor store across the street but if you’re looking for a more varied wine selection or a recommendation, head a few blocks south to In Fine Spirits. The staff is familiar with Antica’s food, and retail manager Michael Malinsky praises the restaurant’s large wine glasses, saying you can "swirl like crazy."

For white pizzas, Malinsky suggests a bottle of 2007 Rossini Bianco ($11.99), a classic white made from the trebbiano grape that tastes of "herbs, lavender and a little bit of anise." For something entirely unique, snag a bottle of 2005 Snafu ($16.99). The California blend is a great partner for Antica’s spicy red pizzas—particularly the Salame (Italian pepperoni with fresh mozzarella, $13.95). Antica charges a $3 per bottle corkage fee.

Emily Hiser Lobdell is a Metromix special contributor. metromix@tribune.com

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