Cost: about $15 per person, including a glass of sangria
The scene: Scene? What scene? We had this place to ourselves on Sunday, and that was just fine with us. (I don't know about you, but we're pretty sick of long Sunday brunch waits). It was also puzzling: Twist does a pretty decent business in Chicago's competitive tapas scene during the evening, so we're not quite sure why it was so deserted for brunch--perhaps it's just because the brunch service is relatively new. When we sat down, we opted for the upper-tier lounge, where a cluster of small, wooden cocktail tables pushed together made for an impromptu communal table. The banquettes overlooked Clark Street, and the setup offered an occasional breeze. It wasn't Spain, of course, but for Wrigleyville, it was close enough.
The cuisine: You can order anything from the regular tapas menu, but we came for the special brunch menu. Actually, that's a little ironic: We're used to needing a morning remedy after a night of tapas and sangria, but this time, we needed something to cure our aching heads from the night before. Twist had just the thing: a chorizo scramble ($8), a hearty--and, mercifully, not too greasy--mound of eggs served with toast and well-seasoned sauteed potatoes (not hash browns, as it says on the menu). The ricotta pancakes ($7), big enough for our party of four to share, satisfied our collective sweet tooth.
Better than a bloody mary: A bloody mary with a tiny lobster tail in sticking out of it (The Bloody Twist, $9). Of course sangria ($6.50 glass/$23 pitcher) is a no-brainer here. If you're starting early, go for the white sangria, perfect for summer. The flavors change regularly; our guava-flavored version with lots of diced fruit like apples, pears, lemons and limes was just the thing for a muggy afternoon. The Twist mimosa ($9), made with apricot nectar, is another great summery choice.
The wait: None.
Loved it: Bottlecap-covered artwork created by one of Chicago's most well-known outsider artists, Mr. Imagination, which works perfectly with the Spanish-inspired mosaic covering the walls.
Hated it: The creeping fear that this brunch secret won't be around much longer if attendance doesn't pick up.
