Brunch at Stanley's on Racine

The scene: This West Loop spinoff of Stanley's Kitchen and Tap feels more subdued than its hard drinkin' Lincoln Park cousin. Still, it's hard to shake the feeling that you're brunching in a bar, even when it's past noon and you're in the dining room (the space is split--half bar, half restaurant). If you don't mind the hum of cars cruising by on the Eisenhower, the spacious outdoor patio is your best bet.

The cuisine: There are two reasons you go to Stanley's for brunch: Either you really, really like fried chicken, or you're looking for a foolproof hangover cure. The $11.95 all-you-can-eat buffet provides both, in abundance. In addition to the usual suspects (bacon, sausage, scrambled eggs, soggy waffles and an uninspired lineup of baked goods), Stanley's stacks its spread with stick-to-your ribs comfort food--just the thing to sop up any evidence of last night's bender. Skip the traditional brunch fare and head straight for Southern specialties like biscuits and gravy, gooey mac and cheese, and, of course, the real reason you're here: that greasy-delicious fried chicken.

The drinks: If you belong to the hair-of-the-dog school of hangover cures, a Stanley's brunch isn't complete without a trip to the bloody mary bar ($8; $2-$3 extra for premium vodkas). Mixers are grocery-store variety, like V-8 and Mrs. T's bloody mary mix, but you can dress them up with extras like A.1. Steak Sauce, sliced jalapenos and pickles.

Kiddie factor: We're not sure if it's the something-for-everyone buffet or the proximity to the expressway, that lifeline to the suburbs, but Stanley's seems to draw an above-average number of shorties.

Brunch time: 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday

Cost: $22-25 per person, with drink

Wait: None. The buffet means tables turn quickly. Plus, on a nice day, the huge patio nearly doubles seating options.

M. Kathleen Pratt is the Metromix print editor. kpratt@tribune.com