Cost: $12-$15 per person, with a cocktail
The scene: I don't like waiting. For anything. That includes waiting for brunch. I'm usually groggy, grouchy and, if it was a good night, just a little queasy. Plus, I'm a slow starter on Sundays, so by the time I get to my brunch destination, I'm usually starving. When it comes to those wait-an-hour-for-a-table places where folks line up on the sidewalk or sit on the curb, I usually find the nearest 24-hour diner or taqueria instead. With one exception: Sometimes, even on a Sunday, I just got to have my Flo. With a formidable mix of downhome charm and Southern-inspired brunch fare, it's one of Chicago's best brunches--and perhaps the one where the wait is worth it. Plus, they're nice enough to give you a cuppa joe while you wait. Once you do get in, you find that the servers have a casual familiarity and a businesslike efficiency.
The cuisine: The menu is inspired by the chile-fueled cuisine of Santa Fe, so you can't go wrong with classics like huevos rancheros ($6.95), a dish of red-hatch chile-smothered enchiladas with cheddar cheese, topped with two eggs cooked just enough to release the perfect amount of yolk. Green chile fans should try the chile-chicken enchiladas ($7.95) covered in roasted-poblano sauce and served with rice and black beans. Though the savory side of the menu makes this spot, there are options for sweets lovers too. Try the lemon and vanilla-accented blueberry French toast while the berries are still in season (Flo gets them from Michigan farms in the summer).
Better than a bloody mary: The verde bloody mary ($6), made with Flo's own special poblano chile verde blend, is a spicier version of the classic--much spicier.
The wait: On Sundays, a 45-minute wait isn't unheard of during peak times (11 a.m-noon). But here's a tip: Stop in on Saturday. Though the room's still bustling, you can usually score a table without any wait.
Loved it: Art lovers will appreciate the displays from local artists on the walls.
Hated it: Did we mention the wait?
[ Chris LaMorte is the Metromix dining producer. ] clamorte@tribune.com
