Brunch time: 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

Cost: $15 per person, with a cocktail

The scene: Generally, we avoid weekend-morning brunch at bars--it's too much like returning to the scene of the crime from last night's debauchery. We make an exception for Minibar | Winebar. A nonsmoking policy means this classy little gay bar doesn't smell like an ashtray in the morning. Plus, Carla Starla, a genuine diva lady, entertains, strutting up and down the narrow aisle, singing disco standards against a prerecorded backing track. Some mornings our heads are already thumping, so we give her props for keeping her floorshow at just the right tempo--energetic without being in-your-face.

The cuisine: We're not entirely sure where the kitchen is in this place. Servers disappear though a mysterious door and reappear holding pretty plates of breakfast food--and even they seem a little surprised by what they're holding. (Is there a brunch genie hidden away somewhere?) Sort of like Saturday night's crowd, the brunch dishes are always pretty, but don't have much depth (e.g. banana-macadamia nut pancakes, $7). Still, the croissant sandwich ($8),with smoked mozzarella and prosciutto, beats a Croissan'wich from BK any morning.

Benedict twist: The breakfast skillet ($8) is closer to fancified eggs benedict sans hollandaise. It's served with prosicutto on lightly toasted ciabatta.

Better than a bloody mary: Sunday Screw ($7)--OJ, vodka, peach schnapps.

Kiddie factor: Mostly (not entirely) kid-free. We guess it's never too early to teach your kids about Jody Watley's back catalog.

The wait: We got in early and were seated immediately. Try to score a seat near the window--it's fun to watch the line of hungry brunchers on the steps of Nookie's Tree across the street.

[ Chris LaMorte is the Metromix dining producer. ] clamorte@tribune.com

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