Brunch time: 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday
Cost: about $22 per person with a cocktail; $13 without
The scene: We know: True fans tailgate. And if you don’t mind a winning combo of charred brats and frozen toes, that’s a great gameday plan. Savvy brunchers, however, head to Gioco for a pre-game meal. It’s not that the South Loop standby is particularly sporty—white tablecloths, heavy velvet curtains and polished mahogany accents hardly scream "Touchdown!" But if you’re on your way to the game, you can’t beat Gioco’s parking deal: Valet your car, pay the usual $10 fee and leave it there until the game is over. The restaurant is within walking distance of Soldier Field, and since it opens at 9 a.m., you don’t have to rush through brunch to avoid missing the kickoff. (Sunday’s game against the Minnesota Vikings starts at noon.) With such a convenient setup, you’d think Gioco would be wall-to-wall navy-and-orange on game days, but it’s hard to distinguish pre-game diners from the rest of the crowd. Instead, you’ll find a mix of young couples and more mature brunchers, all looking for a mellow Sunday brunch in the neighborhood.
The cuisine: More American-Italian than straight-up Italian, brunch fare is satisfying but not overly ambitious. On the savory side, familiar dishes get an Italian twist—think eggs benedict with house-cured pancetta swapped in for the usual Canadian bacon ($9). Other savory offerings include omelets and frittatas, as well as salads and panini. But in the great savory-sweet brunch debate, sweet options come out on top here. We loved the Brioche Alla Francese ($8), wedges of airy brioche French toast stuffed with fresh bananas and sprinkled with candied walnuts. The surprise hit, though, was a simple scone ($5). Our fabulous ginger-raisin version arrived warm, studded with plump golden raisins and accompanied by a rich Madeira mascarpone.
Better than a bloody mary: South Side Bellini ($9), bubbly with a bit of fresh raspberry or mango puree
The wait: None
Loved it: Can’t bear an Italian meal without pasta? Try the Pasta Frittata ($8), with tubes of penne cooked right into the egg mixture along with rapini and sundried tomatoes.
Hated it: Gioco has a full bar, but brunch cocktails are neglected, save for the usual bloody mary and one gussied-up bellini.
M. Kathleen Pratt is the Metromix print editor. kpratt@tribune.com
