We're not sure why this year has suddenly turned into the Year of the Gourmet-Style, Ultra Thin-Crust, Uber-Authentic Pizza, but we know one thing: With pizza this good, we don't really care. But to the untrained stomach, each of these new spots can seem really similar: They all have those big-ass wood-fired ovens. They all have those Tuscan-yellow walls. They all specialize in 12-inch pizzas. And they're all less than a year old. How to decide between them? Let us help

The Neighborhood Joint: Gruppo di Amici
Open since: June. If it were a famous Italian it'd be: Roberto Benigni. The name translates to "group of friends," so who better to embody the spirit of this space than the hug-happy Oscar winner? Owners Lori Alderete and Phaedra Divras were neighborhood gals who wanted to evoke the warmth of their food-centric upbringings. So they hired exec chef (and Roman native) Donatella Majore de Vette to create dishes with the same casual elegance as she does at her own trattoria, La Cucina di Donatella. Oven trivia: 482-527 degrees; cooks a 12-inch pie in 2-3 minutes; oak-fired
Number of pies on menu: 8 Our fave: Capricciosa ($14). How do you top a pie already teaming with tomato, olives, mushrooms, mozzarella and proscuitto? With three quartered sections of a hard-boiled egg, that's how! But don't forget about: Dessert, including a homemade passion-fruit cannoli ($6).
UPDATE 8/22/06: Donatell Majore de Vette no longer is affiliated with Gruppo.

The Classic: Trattoria D.O.C.
Open since: April. If it were a famous Italian it'd be: Sophia Loren. Just like this ageless sex symbol, D.O.C's legend just gets stronger with time. The original Pizza D.O.C. , which opened in 1999, gets credit for upping the ante in a town that already claimed to take its pizza as seriously as a heart attack. While the original's still going, the Evanston sibling is no slouch, by staying true to the formula of tasty pizza served up in a down-to-earth room. Oven trivia: 700-1,000 degrees; cook time: average 2 minutes. Imported from Tuscany Number of pies: 30 Our fave: Patate e Rosemarino ($11.50). Potato pizza sounds strange, but it's also an Italian classic. The bright flavors of Trattoria D.O.C.'s version--nothing but extra virgin olive oil for these pies--lets you understand why. But don't forget about: The crunchable Sedano e Mela ($6.25)--a celery and green apple salad with flakes of shaved parmesan served in a radicchio leaf.

The Real Corker: Frasca
Open since: May If it were a famous Italian it'd be: Robert Mondavi. He's got his critics, sure, but California wine baron Mondavi has helped bring quality, affordable wine to the American masses. Likewise, cousins Michael and Doug Dunlay--with biz partners Derek Rettel and chef-partner Robert Kabakoff--bring everyday gourmet to Lincoln Parkers with Dunlays on Clark , and D.O.C. Wine Bar. With the new spot, offering 85 bottles of wine, you can now pair your pie with something other than a beer. True to Frasca's populist roots, most bottles hit the $30-40 range, though no Mondavi labels are on the list. Oven trivia: 720-740 degrees; cook time: 3-4 minutes; apple wood and hickory-fired; imported from California Number of pies: 8 Our fave: Capone ($12). OK, the name's a bit of a cliche, but this pie's fennel sausage is a real killer. But don't forget about: Half-price wine bottles on Monday and half-price glasses on Tuesday

The Naples Staple: Spacca Napoli
Open since: February. If it were a famous Italian it'd be: The Soprano's Paulie Walnuts. Wait, wait, hear us out on this one: Owner Jonathan Goldsmith is no baddie--in fact, he's the longest-serving volunteer at civic-minded Inspiration Cafe. But you don't get the city's most authentic Neapolitan-style crust (please, don't confuse it with crispy Roman 'za) by being anything less than a total hard-ass when it comes to the small stuff. From dough balls (between 180 and 300 grams) to precise cook time (90 seconds), Goldsmith enforces the rules--just like they do at the Naples spots where he trained. The result: full-flavored, supple bubbly crust offering a perfect combo of char and chew. Oven trivia: 1,400 lbs.; 1,200 degrees; oak-fired Number of pies on menu: 14-16 Our fave: Salsiccia e Broccoletti ($13). This white pizza brims with Fior di latte mozzarella and fruity olive oil, plus rapini--a heart-smart veggie always helps mitigate gorging guilt. But don't forget about: Insalata Mista ($5), the meaty Sicilian green olives are enough to turn us into FBI informants.

Chris LaMorte is the metromix dining producer. This article was updated Aug. 22, 2006.