Inside: The Red Canary

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If you don’t remember Avenue M, which closed in the fall, let us refresh your memory. This impressive Milwaukee Avenue lounge had unique features that inherently lent a sense of energy and drama: soaring ceilings, second-floor balconies, a gorgeous ivy-walled patio and a crowd that was more interested in flirting over vodka-tonics than shelling out for the kitchen’s $30 entrees. Hometown boys Shane Hudson and Jamie Uhlir scooped up the property and, last Friday, opened the Red Canary, their first Chicago venture. Can this newcomer live up to the scene that once reigned at this address?

THE SCENE
The Maserati and souped-up Infiniti parked out front were our first clues that the scene had found its way to the Canary on opening night. Dressed-to-impress pretty people were on the prowl throughout the shadowy, cacophonous first floor framed with scarlet walls and glittering chandeliers. (Think Lincoln Park’s post-college meat market, but grown-up, with better clothes and fatter wallets.) The lighting was low, but Canary could hardly be called romantic. Hearing over the loud soundtrack of clubby jazz is a challenge (or a perk, if you don’t care to actually hear whoever you’ve just met). After 9 p.m., the few couples around were there for the party, not romance.

THE CROWD
Dudes look like they’ve spent plenty of time in the gym and the tanning booth. And like the pictures of 1920s starlets hung on the walls, the ladies are working the Hollywood glamour with cocktail dresses, cleavage and chic clutches. From snug Ed Hardy tees to the occasional microscopic mini-skirt, everyone here is trying. Hard.

THE LAY OF THE LAND
The owners call Canary a “gastrolounge,” a concept that has been both hyped and ridiculed in the nightlife industry. Who wants to shell out for high-end food only to eat it while awkwardly balanced on tiny ottomans and low-slung tables? But Canary has plenty of half-moon booths and dining room-style tables, where groups comfortably noshed opening night before sticking around for a piece of the sultry later-night scene. The second-floor lounge is lighter and quieter, with another bar, DJ booth and two balconies to voyeuristically watch the crowd churn below. As for the coveted backyard patio, set with silver tables and sleek sofas, it’s still pending approval to open.

THE DRINKS
If you’re out for fine mixology, reroute to In Fine Spirits or the Violet Hour; there’s nothing too novel going on with the page-long cocktail list here. Fancy 1920s-style names such as the Noble Experiment and the Muckracker are disguised classics (margarita and mojito, respectively). The most interesting choice is the namesake Canary, made with grapefruit vodka, Chambord, lime juice and ginger ale.

THE EATS
Avenue M’s menu of pricey steaks may have been its downfall, so it’s smart that Canary opted for “mid-plates,” a compromise between the ubiquitous small plate and a full entree. With chef Rick Spiros (who wowed at the short-lived Mantou Noodle Bar) in the kitchen, our expectations were high. Though we weren’t raving about the bland mac and cheese or soggy garlic brioche crowned with short rib meat, we’re still craving the tasty bacon-topped lobster roll -- apparently the sandwich of the summer for bars opened up by young male owners.

BOTTOM LINE
No doubt, people are psyched to get back in this space—and back on that patio. Hopefully, the patio will follow suit in time for the weather to hit its summer stride.

Lisa Arnett is the Metromix nightlife and shopping producer. lmarnett@tribune.com

>>For more on recently opened bars, check out New on the scene.

>>To get the scoop on coming-soon spots across town, don't miss The Countdown.

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