Inside: Risque Cafe

The name alone was enough to entice us. But the idea of smoked meats and 200-plus beers had us drooling.

Owner Christopher Peckat—the man behind Fixture, The Ashland and soon-to-come Risque neighbor Purgatory Pizza—has been busy: His Meritage Cafe & Wine Bar in Bucktown closed at the end of 2007, about the same time Risque Cafe launched in soft-opening mode. (The grand opening is slated for Jan. 18 and 19.)

This weeks-old Lakeview bar and restaurant is still settling in at the former Improv Kitchen address, and because of that, it lacks ambience. Walls are bare, though soon they’ll be covered in 6-foot paintings of photos of modern (read: tattooed) pin-up girls like Sabina Kelly and Bernie Dexter. High stainless steel-topped tables fill the static space, creating a bar-like vibe despite its restaurant-quality food.

For now, the most risque thing we spotted was a few naked breasts on a 42-inch plasma screening grindhouse flicks from Peckat’s personal collection. When it matters, the three TVs will be tuned to sports.

What Risque currently lacks in atmosphere, it makes up for with its meat, slow-cooked in a smoker with hickory and wood chips from Buffalo Trace bourbon barrels soaked in even more bourbon. The result? Our trio of pulled chicken sliders melted in our mouths, the smoky flavor mingling with the sweet and tangy house-made barbecue sauce.

Order pulled pork, brisket and chicken by the slider (three for $5.95), sandwich ($7.95-$9.95) or entree platter ($13.95 average). Duck wings, turkey legs, baby back ribs and specialty smoked sausages are also available, and you can round out a hearty meal with sides such as jalapeno-cheddar corn bread, mac and cheese, home-style chips, or baked beans ($2.95 each; two for $5.45). And save room for dessert: There’s as skillet cookie ($5.95) and a float made with Lost Coast 8-Ball Stout ($6.95).

Pair your barbecue with one of 220 American brews—the already robust menu will eventually feature about 300 selections. Beers are divided by state and printed in a hard-to-read font, but we’re told more descriptions and beer notes will be added as the menus evolve. Peckat says his current favorites include offerings from Lagunitas brewery in Petaluma, Calif.; Two Brothers in Warrenville, Ill.; and Moylan’s in Novato, Calif. The bar also is stocked with 60 bourbons plus another 30 to 40 scotches, whiskeys and ryes.

For all the promise the food shows, Risque suffers from some under-informed servers. Our young waitress was clueless when it came to making recommendations, though she kindly sent the bartender to our table. We’re told staff is still undergoing training.

If you look past the opening kinks and unfinished decor, the beer and tasty ’cue delivers—and for a reasonable price.

[ Karen Budell is the Metromix nightlife producer. ]
kmbudell@tribune.com