D4 Irish Pub & Cafe (click here for address, hours, maps and more)
vs.
Wilde Bar & Restaurant
Irish pubs are a dime a dozen in this town, but we gladly make room for these two from owners with genuine brogues. Since they opened about the same time in November, we think it’s fitting that they go head-to-head to kick off a month of Irish pub faceoffs. Which one brings a better upscale, modern pub atmosphere from the Emerald Isle to the Windy City? Read on for our take, then cast your vote.
THE STORY
D4: Named after Dublin 4, the tony Ireland zip code where owner Brendan McNeill was raised, this pub delivers on its name with a modern look and location inside The Streeter. McNeill, who ran Emerald Isle for years, partnered with Lizzie McNeill’s and Bridget McNeill’s alum Debbie Zalesiak. Don’t let the sleek surroundings fool you: This place still has history. The suitcase McNeill used when emigrating from Ireland in 1957 is at the bar for good luck, and a copy of The Book of Kells will soon be on display.
Wilde: The folks behind this Lakeview pub hail from County Cork and County Kerry, so they have firsthand knowledge of what makes a successful Irish pub tick. Plus, partner Martin Cournane used to manage The Kerryman. Here, the owners give a nod to Boystown residents and draw inspiration from fellow countryman Oscar Wilde, carrying a writerly theme throughout: Check out the cozy library nook with roaring fireplace.
Advantage: D4. McNeill’s got the brogue, the battered suitcase, and soon, the Book of Kells, to back up his Irish roots.
THE SCENE
D4: It’s a downtown crowd: Think tourists, a professional Streeterville set and folks looking for a bite before hitting the nearby AMC movie theater. High ceilings provide a peek at the bones of the contemporary building, but the decor gives you a taste of Dublin’s Georgian townhouses: brass chandeliers, leather banquettes, a mosaic tile floor, two fireplaces and a handcrafted bar made of English oak. Photos and minimal bric-a-brac dot the walls.
Wilde: Let’s just say Oscar Wilde would love the clientele here: boys abound. (Sometimes the music even resembles a Boystown club mix.) But Lakeview locals of all persuasions feel right at home in this warm, inviting atmosphere. Beautiful stained-glass ceiling domes and Victorian bars create an upscale yet casual environment. Two nooks with fireside seating add a "Masterpiece Theatre"-like element.
Advantage: Wilde. With two fireplaces apiece it’s almost a dead heat—until you factor in the homey appeal of the uber-cozy library area at the Boystown spot.
FOOD & DRINKS
D4: Modern pub grub with Irish flair, such as Jameson Chipotle Buffalo Wings ($9), mingles with Chicago-style deep-dish pizza and pub standards. You’ll even notice a touch of Southern charm in items such as shrimp and grits ($14) and pulled pork ($9). Portions are hearty and dishes are flavorful. Sip from a selection of about 50 whiskeys and scotches, 70 bottled beers and 16 drafts.
Wilde: Wilde serves its own whiskey-glazed wings ($8.25) plus more traditional pub favorites and homestyle cooking. The rosemary chicken with mashed potatoes and broccoli could’ve fed us for a week ($14.95); the chicken curry ($14.95) was a spot-on nod to across-the-pond pub faves. Classic imports are on tap, as are concoctions where the brews co-mingle: Black and Tan, Snakebite, Black Velvet, Half-and-Half ($5.50).
Advantage: Wilde. Though it’s a tad pricey for its location, the menu is extensive and you’ll have leftovers for days.
ST. PATRICK'S DAY
D4: Party with the Metromix crew at our official post-parade soiree. Cameras from CLTV’s "Metromix" will be taping, Irish dancers will perform, and a variety of food specials will help you soak up all of the Guinness and whiskey you’re sure to be drinking. Bonus: We’ll be handing out green beads and Metromix swag. The bar opens at 9 a.m. on parade day, March 15. Homemade Irish stew, shepherd’s pie and other specials are available on St. Patrick’s Day.
Wilde: The bar goes green when decorations go up March 1. Celebrations kick off March 9 with live music from an Irish group (3-6 p.m.), plus more entertainment mid-week and Irish DJs to keep the beat alive through the weekend, right up through St. Pat’s. Expect traditional tunes, upbeat drinking music and modern rock, from The Waterboys to U2. Did we mention the green beer and the corned beef and cabbage?
Advantage: D4. But maybe we’re biased.
Bottom line: We find D4 and Wilde in a tie, so we left it up to you! Votes cast by readers in our online poll determined that D4 Irish Pub & Cafe is the winner.
D4 makes our final round of voting the week before St. Patrick’s Day; we’ll run another faceoff every Wednesday up until St. Patrick’s Day, when we’ll reveal the ultimate winner.
>> Click here to check out more photos of both bars.
[ Karen Budell is the Metromix nightlife producer. ]
kmbudell@tribune.com


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